Crochet Waffle Stitch Scarf – Free Pattern for Beginners
A waffle stitch scarf is the kind of scarf you want to sink your chin into on a cold morning. The fabric is thick, squishy and covered in little square pockets, like a waffle or a thermal blanket, and it looks far more complicated than it is. Worked in a soft dusty rose, it is a scarf that goes with every winter coat.
This crochet waffle stitch scarf is worked flat in rows, from one short end to the other. The texture comes from just two stitches — the double crochet and the front post double crochet — swapped over on every row. Once you have done the first three rows, you will not need to look at the pattern again.
It is a great second or third crochet project. If you can make a double crochet, the only new skill is working around the post of a stitch, which is explained step by step below.
Why this crochet scarf works
The waffle stitch is built from raised columns and sunken squares. On one row, every third stitch is a front post double crochet, which lifts forward; the pairs between them are ordinary double crochets. On the next row the roles swap: you work a plain double crochet into the raised stitch, and front post double crochets around the pair. The raised stitches form a grid and the plain stitches sink into the middle of each square.
Because the post stitches lie on top of the fabric, the waffle is roughly twice as thick as plain double crochet, which makes it very warm. It also pulls in slightly sideways, so the scarf has a neat, firm edge and does not curl.
The honest trade-off: all that thickness uses a lot of yarn — about half as much again as a plain double crochet scarf of the same size. It is worth it, but plan your yarn budget before you start.
Materials you will need
- Yarn: about 950 yards of worsted weight (#4) wool blend or soft acrylic in dusty rose
- Hook: 5.5 mm (I-9)
- Notions: tapestry needle, scissors, a stitch marker for the right side
Gauge and finished size
In waffle stitch with a 5.5 mm hook, 16 sts and 9 rows make a 4″ square after blocking. The finished scarf is about 8″ wide and 70″ long. Gauge is not critical for a scarf, but a looser gauge will use more yarn.
Abbreviations
- ch = chain: yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook.
- sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, pull a loop through the stitch and the loop on your hook together.
- sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both.
- hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over and pull through all 3.
- dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over and pull through 2, yarn over and pull through the last 2.
- st(s) = stitch(es); sp = space; tch = turning chain; BLO = back loop only.
- FPdc = front post double crochet: yarn over, insert your hook from the front to the back around the post (the upright body) of the stitch below, then back to the front, so the post sits on top of your hook. Yarn over, pull up a loop, and finish the stitch as a normal dc.
Pattern notes
- The scarf is worked flat in rows, turning at the end of each row.
- The ch 3 at the beginning of each row counts as the first dc.
- The stitch count is 33 on every row: a multiple of 3, plus 3.
- Always work the last dc of each row into the top of the turning chain, or the scarf will slowly get narrower.
Step by step
Setting up
Ch 35.
Row 1: Dc in the 4th ch from the hook (the 3 skipped chains count as the first dc) and in each ch across. Turn. (33)
The waffle rows
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc). *FPdc around the next st, dc in each of the next 2 sts*; repeat from * 9 more times. FPdc around the next st, dc in the top of the turning chain. Turn. (33: 11 FPdc)
Row 3: Ch 3. *Dc in the next st (the FPdc), FPdc around each of the next 2 sts*; repeat from * 9 more times. Dc in the next st, dc in the top of the turning chain. Turn. (33: 20 FPdc)
Look at Row 3: wherever Row 2 had a single raised stitch, Row 3 has a plain dc; and wherever Row 2 had two plain dc, Row 3 has two raised stitches. That swap is the whole pattern.
Row 4: Ch 3. *FPdc around the next st (the dc), dc in each of the next 2 sts (the FPdc pair)*; repeat from * 9 more times. FPdc around the next st, dc in the top of the turning chain. Turn. (33)
Rows 5 onwards: Repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Keep going until the scarf is about 70″ long, or the length you want, ending after a Row 3. That is roughly 158 rows. Fasten off and weave in the ends along the side edges.
Optional edging
For a very neat finish, join the yarn at any corner and work one round of sc evenly all the way around the scarf: 1 sc in each st along the short ends, 2 sc around each dc post along the long sides, and 3 sc in each corner. Join and fasten off.
How to read your waffle stitch
The easiest way never to lose your place is to read the row below. If the next stitch is raised and sits on its own, it gets a plain dc. If the next two stitches are flat dc, they each get a FPdc. If you ever see three raised stitches in a row, or a single raised stitch where there should be two, you have slipped a stitch — pull back to the mistake and redo it.
Variations
- Wider wrap: add stitches in multiples of 3. For a 12″ wrap scarf, ch 50 (48 sts).
- Stripes: change colour every 10 rows for wide bands, or work the whole scarf in one colour and add a contrast edging.
- Fringe: cut 10″ lengths of yarn, fold 3 strands in half and knot them through every third stitch along each short end.
- Matching hat: the same stitch worked in the round makes a lovely beanie brim.
How long should a crochet scarf be?
There is no single right length, but these measurements are a good guide. A child’s scarf is about 40–48″ long. An adult scarf that wraps once with the ends hanging down the front is about 60–65″. A long scarf that wraps twice, or can be tied in a loose knot, is about 70–80″. A good rule of thumb is to make the scarf roughly as long as the wearer is tall, minus about a foot.
Width matters just as much. A slim scarf of 6–7″ is neat under a coat collar. An everyday scarf is 8–10″. Anything 12″ or wider becomes a wrap or blanket scarf that can be worn over the shoulders. Every pattern in this collection gives the stitch multiple, so you can make it wider or narrower.
Choosing yarn for a scarf
A scarf sits right against the neck and face, so softness matters more than for almost any other project. Hold a skein against your neck in the shop before you buy it. Wool and wool blends are the warmest and the most forgiving — they bounce back after wear and block beautifully. Merino is the softest wool and rarely itches. Acrylic is affordable, machine washable and comes in every colour, which makes it a practical choice for gifts and for children. Alpaca and alpaca blends are very warm and silky but can stretch a little with wear.
Avoid stiff cottons for a winter scarf: they are not very warm and can feel heavy. And for textured stitches like waffle, cluster and moss stitch, choose a smooth, plied yarn rather than a fuzzy or bouclé one — the texture shows up far better.
Always buy all the yarn for one scarf from the same dye lot. A scarf is one long piece, and a change in shade halfway through is very easy to see.
Common problems and fixes
My scarf is getting narrower.
You are missing the last stitch, which is the turning chain of the row below. Mark the top of each turning chain until working into it becomes a habit.
The waffles look flat.
Your post stitches are too tight. Pull up the loop around the post a little taller, to the height of the plain dc.
The scarf curls.
Waffle stitch normally lies flat. If yours curls, block it, and work the optional sc edging.
Blocking and finishing
Blocking makes a big difference to a scarf: it evens out the stitches, straightens the edges and gives the fabric a lovely drape. For wool and wool blends, soak the scarf in cool water for twenty minutes, squeeze out the water gently (never wring), roll it in a towel, then lay it flat on blocking mats or a clean towel, pat it to the right width and length, and leave it to dry completely. For acrylic, lay the scarf flat, pin it to shape and hover a steam iron just above it — never press the iron onto acrylic, or it will go flat and shiny for good.
Caring for your scarf
Hand wash wool scarves in cool water with a wool wash, and dry them flat. Acrylic scarves can usually go in the washing machine on a gentle cycle inside a mesh bag, then dry flat. Never hang a crochet scarf to dry — the weight of the wet yarn will stretch it. To store, fold it rather than hanging it on a hook, and keep wool scarves with a cedar block over the summer to keep moths away.
More crochet scarf patterns in this collection
This is one of six free crochet scarf patterns, each in a completely different stitch and style — from a squishy textured waffle to a boho granny stripe with tassels. Pick the one that suits your skill, your yarn and the look you want, or make a few as winter gifts.
- Waffle Stitch Scarf — you are here
- Chunky Cluster Stitch Scarf
- Chunky Ribbed Scarf
- Granny Stripe Tassel Scarf
- Moss Stitch Infinity Scarf
- Striped Chevron Scarf
Frequently asked
Is waffle stitch reversible?
Not quite. The front shows raised squares; the back is flatter, with a gentle ridged texture. Both sides look good, so a scarf does not have an ugly side.
How long does this scarf take?
About 12 to 15 hours, depending on your speed. It is a perfect project to work on in front of the television.
Before you start
Make a small swatch of 15 sts and 8 rows to practise the front post double crochet. Once the swatch looks like a waffle, you are ready. More cosy wearables are in Hats & Scarves.
